Saturday Ryan and I went up the mountain to do some trad climbing. We went to Green Slabs so Ryan could get in a couple of leads that he had not gotten to do the week before we went to Red Rocks. He lead Banana Cake, and Here and Now. I got to lead Samson and Delieback. It is a 5.9 two star climb. It really was a fun climb. The only thing that kept it from getting all the stars is the best part of the climb, the lie back, was only about two moves. It was worth doing the whole climb just for those two moves. Afterward, we headed up to Windy Point to climb Slippery when wet. I hadn't lead it yet, and it is considered a Tucson classic. All in all it was probably my best day of climbing in at least a week.
Halloween 2010
14 years ago
4 comments:
Ah I love a god lie back! Note: In Utah we call them lay backs, so you better practice saying that before you come.
"At least a week"?? In my life this day of climbing would constitute the best climbing in a year--if not two years. I love all these climbs.
I'm no expert, and the grade looks straight forward, but there does not appear to be any gear placed--or maybe one piece. Should we start calling you Alex, or Steve, or John? Derek Hersey died on a 5.9, and he free-soloed 5.12.
The picture is of Ryan cleaning the anchors. I definately placed gear on this route. I have been working on my head when on easy ground and placing gear only when necessary. I find that if I can do this the gear is better, and I don't get as pumped trying to lock off and fiddle gear in where if I make a move or two there will be a good pacement.
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