One Bolt

Mike and I are trying to plan a mid week climbing trip to go do Dave and Rich route. We have been texting back and forth to get it planned. Today I realized that I didn't know much about the route, and began to be concerned. Mike has a way of getting me on climbs that don't suit my climbing style, and scare me silly (er). Kind of like Heart and Sole in J-Tree. I spent an hour flailing away on that 5.10a slab to crack only to find out it shouldn't be climbed in direct sun or in temps above 55 degrees. It was 90 degrees and sunny. Thanks Mike. So I texted Mike and asked him "this isn't one of your slabby two bolt horror shows is it?" His reply? "One bolt."

The Steve Effect

After I posted The Kent Effect (which showed up in December because that's when I started it instead of last week when I posted it) I got a friendly e-mail reminder from my friend Steve. Steve has more mountain adventures than anyone I know even though he has five busy kids. He helped me remember why we wear helmets by sending me this picture of the back of one of his climbing partner's head. I had already decided to be better about wearing my helmet, but this picture will hopefully motivate me. With out the helmet this could have been way worse. Thanks for the reminder Steve. So I said I was going to do better wearing my helmet, but I have to admit that I forgot to wear it on three lead climbs yesterday. So much for scared straight. On that note we had a really fun day at Rivendale. Ryan, Brett, Mike, Steve, Agnes, Morgan, and Connor all came along. The approach is about 45 minutes, but the climbing was really fun, and the company was great. If you ever go to Rivendale take the wash, and not the climbers trail. Trust me. It's much easier in the wash.

Big 4

I found this video/announcement today on youtube. The whole family has the week before off for spring break so I am trying to convince everyone that we should go to J-Tree for a nice family climbing trip. We would be close to Indio too. Might as well go see the Big 4. Amy notified me that it is on her birthday. We'll see how this plays out. I may have to settle for the DVD.

New Gear for 2011

Here is a link to a review from the UK Outdoor Retailer show. I only wish I needed some new climbing gear. I have been told that I "have enough". Take a look at the BD Gridlock, Petzl Ange, the two DMM biners, and BD's new wire hooded biner. I found the Grivel video on how they test everyone of their biners interesting. If you watch it look when it is loaded by the machine. You will be able to see the biner stretch and contact and then load the gate. Pretty cool to us gear nerds. http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/news.php?id=2910

Word of the Day, Placepro

Pla-ce-pro (pla see pro) n. The act of placing a piece of rock climbing protection (nut, cam, etc.) knowing it will never hold a fall with the hopes that it will bolster the climber's confidence allowing him to stop openly weeping, and continue climbing. Special thanks to Mike Leonard for today's Word of the Day.

Ewephoria

Yesterday Ryan, Mike, and I climbed at Cochise Stronghold down by Tombstone. I know I say it almost every time I go climbing with good company, but it really was one of my best days ever. We climbed on the Sheepshead formation, and did a route called Ewephoria (5.8). It is five pitches, and super fun. Mike in front of the Sheepshead. There are several good routes on this dome. I want to go back and do Peacemaker (5.10a). Ewephoria is on the left side in the picture.

Here's Mike showing proper friction technique. Notice the penalty slack in the rope. That's what you get when you have such a great cutting sense of humor while standing on flat ground (just kidding Mike).

Mike following Ryan, and trailing a rope for me to follow.

Me and my boy Ryan.

Ryan following the last pitch, and making the hardest move of the climb in my opinion. This last pitch is one alternative to the top and rates 5.9 I think. It's hard to tell from the picture, but the slight bulge above the footholds tries to push the climber off.

Middle Class Rut

Middle Class Rut is a two piece band. That's right these two guys do make all of the music. Just hit pause on the music player to the right, and then hit play on the video. I think they are a cool band, and that this is a great song. Especially for having been made by only two guysl