One Bolt

Mike and I are trying to plan a mid week climbing trip to go do Dave and Rich route. We have been texting back and forth to get it planned. Today I realized that I didn't know much about the route, and began to be concerned. Mike has a way of getting me on climbs that don't suit my climbing style, and scare me silly (er). Kind of like Heart and Sole in J-Tree. I spent an hour flailing away on that 5.10a slab to crack only to find out it shouldn't be climbed in direct sun or in temps above 55 degrees. It was 90 degrees and sunny. Thanks Mike. So I texted Mike and asked him "this isn't one of your slabby two bolt horror shows is it?" His reply? "One bolt."

The Steve Effect

After I posted The Kent Effect (which showed up in December because that's when I started it instead of last week when I posted it) I got a friendly e-mail reminder from my friend Steve. Steve has more mountain adventures than anyone I know even though he has five busy kids. He helped me remember why we wear helmets by sending me this picture of the back of one of his climbing partner's head. I had already decided to be better about wearing my helmet, but this picture will hopefully motivate me. With out the helmet this could have been way worse. Thanks for the reminder Steve. So I said I was going to do better wearing my helmet, but I have to admit that I forgot to wear it on three lead climbs yesterday. So much for scared straight. On that note we had a really fun day at Rivendale. Ryan, Brett, Mike, Steve, Agnes, Morgan, and Connor all came along. The approach is about 45 minutes, but the climbing was really fun, and the company was great. If you ever go to Rivendale take the wash, and not the climbers trail. Trust me. It's much easier in the wash.

Big 4

I found this video/announcement today on youtube. The whole family has the week before off for spring break so I am trying to convince everyone that we should go to J-Tree for a nice family climbing trip. We would be close to Indio too. Might as well go see the Big 4. Amy notified me that it is on her birthday. We'll see how this plays out. I may have to settle for the DVD.

New Gear for 2011

Here is a link to a review from the UK Outdoor Retailer show. I only wish I needed some new climbing gear. I have been told that I "have enough". Take a look at the BD Gridlock, Petzl Ange, the two DMM biners, and BD's new wire hooded biner. I found the Grivel video on how they test everyone of their biners interesting. If you watch it look when it is loaded by the machine. You will be able to see the biner stretch and contact and then load the gate. Pretty cool to us gear nerds. http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/news.php?id=2910

Word of the Day, Placepro

Pla-ce-pro (pla see pro) n. The act of placing a piece of rock climbing protection (nut, cam, etc.) knowing it will never hold a fall with the hopes that it will bolster the climber's confidence allowing him to stop openly weeping, and continue climbing. Special thanks to Mike Leonard for today's Word of the Day.

Ewephoria

Yesterday Ryan, Mike, and I climbed at Cochise Stronghold down by Tombstone. I know I say it almost every time I go climbing with good company, but it really was one of my best days ever. We climbed on the Sheepshead formation, and did a route called Ewephoria (5.8). It is five pitches, and super fun. Mike in front of the Sheepshead. There are several good routes on this dome. I want to go back and do Peacemaker (5.10a). Ewephoria is on the left side in the picture.

Here's Mike showing proper friction technique. Notice the penalty slack in the rope. That's what you get when you have such a great cutting sense of humor while standing on flat ground (just kidding Mike).

Mike following Ryan, and trailing a rope for me to follow.

Me and my boy Ryan.

Ryan following the last pitch, and making the hardest move of the climb in my opinion. This last pitch is one alternative to the top and rates 5.9 I think. It's hard to tell from the picture, but the slight bulge above the footholds tries to push the climber off.

Middle Class Rut

Middle Class Rut is a two piece band. That's right these two guys do make all of the music. Just hit pause on the music player to the right, and then hit play on the video. I think they are a cool band, and that this is a great song. Especially for having been made by only two guysl

Tuesday's Gone

When you are Metallica, you cover who and what you want. Enjoy Skynard done by Metallica.

Another Rug

I talked one of the route setters at the gym out of some old gym ropes to make another rug. After the first one I said I would only make them when I wore out a rope, but I have to admit that I kind of have the bug. I really like the idea of turning something useless into something usable. Recycling is great and all, but continuing to use something that was considered garbage is really cool. I have to admit that having an old piece of climbing gear laying by the door doing a new job makes me happy.

I am trying to decide if I should give this rug to the guy who gave me the rope. Kind of grease the skids to try to get more rope. The problem is I kind of like it (I think Elsie does too.) What do you think I should do?

Vegetables

I am not the healthiest eater as anyone who knows me can attest. I have been trying to do better though. In fact right now Amy and I have joined Ann in a sugar fast. Not easy. Did you know that ice cream has sugar in it. I have always said that if vegetables tasted even reasonably good I would eat them. Now I have to make good on that statement. The other day one of the guys I share fitness and diet info with at work brought me a "shake". I drank it and thought it tasted ok. It was a little chunky for me, but I could stand it. Turns out it was full of spinach, celery, and parsley. The secret was a cup of OJ and a ring of pineapple. I came home and told Amy about it and not long afterwards she bought me this great little personal blender. The guy at work has one of those Magic Bullet infomercial blenders. It works ok, but it leaves the shake very fibrous. This blender makes the shakes smooth with not even little chunks. It came with four personal cups, lids, and an actual blender container too.

Here is one of the shakes. Yeah, I know it looks horrible. Believe me I really hesitated before drinking the first one. It was a little scary. I actually like them though, and they are very filling. I get at least a serving of green leafys, some fruit, and all for just over 100 calories. Highly recommended.

The Finger

My friend Steve who lives in Idaho broke his finger and this is how it now looks when straight. He did it running. I guess they have this stuff called ice up there and it is really slippery. Hope it heals up before climbing season Steve.

Goaded

Saturday I went climbing at the Ruins with Ryan, Mike, Joe, and everybody else in Tucson who was trying to stay low on the mountain where it was warm. When gearing up at the car I asked Ryan if I needed to bring my rope. He said no because both he and Joe had a rope. When we got to the parking area we decided to only bring one rope because Mike was going to be coming soon, and Mike always brings his rope (and complete rack including hexes). We made the thirty plus minute approach up the steep mountain side to the crag and started climbing. Mike showed up a little while later, and guess what. That's right. He showed up with a harness and shoes. One rope four climbers. We would have spent all day and everyone would have gotten to do two routes. I said "I'll just run back to the car and grab Joe's rope. It will only take fifteen or twenty minutes." I added the 15-20 minutes part so no one would feel bad about me having to run the errand. Everyone protested a little, but then I just said I was going. As soon as I started to leave Joe said "who has a watch? I want to see if he can really make it back that fast." Now it was on. I had been challenged, and I knew it would be more than twenty minutes. The Catalinas are steep, and climbers build trails straight up with very few switchbacks. I was screwed and knew it, but I had opened my big mouth. I ended up not being able to run all the way back up the hill with Joe's old school 12mm rope. It was heavy, and the grade was steep. I ended up doing the round trip in twenty nine minutes and change. At least my legs are really sore though.

BB&S Fun Run

I only received pictures from two participants of our fun run. I guess it wasn't as big a success as last year's was. I am going to try to do something else similar to this in the near future, but it will be better planned.

Nancy, oops I mean Brett on the treadmill running out the old and running in the new. I guess it was a little too cold for him outside.

This young lady is named Paula. She lives in Florida, and found the run on Amy's blog via the Run Run live network and podcast. Thanks for participating Paula.

To Live Is To Die

This song is my music pick for the week. It is mostly instrumental with a short reading of a poem written by Metallica's late bass player Cliff Burton. The reading starts at about 7:35 if you would like to fast forward to it. Cliff borrowed a single line from another author and expounded on it. It is my favorite poem.

When a man lies he murders some part of the world

These are the pale deaths which men miscall their lives

All this I cannot bear to witness any longer

Cannot the kingdom of salvation

Take me home

Podcast

Check out this podcast http://www.runrunlive.com/episode-153-tom-derderian. Pay particular attention to the introduction. I like this podcast series, and recommend it to anyone who is even thinking about running.

New Year's Run

So how did you do? I haven't seen any pictures yet. Hopefully you are all to tired from being out all night running to upload your pictures to your computer. Let's get them e-mailed so I can post them. (Even if your pictures are only of you on the treadmill.)